Most people who walk into Leadenhall Market spend their first thirty seconds looking straight up. The painted iron vault above — panels of burnt orange, cream, and burgundy — has that effect on people. It is extraordinary. But while they are craning their necks at one of London’s most spectacular ceilings, most of them miss what is happening at ground level: one of the oldest and most atmospheric pubs in the City of London, tucked just off the main crossing, going about its business exactly as it has done for centuries.
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